A pepper-forward, curd-soft biryani using seeraga samba rice. Less chilli than Ambur, more black pepper. The meat is tender from the yogurt marinade, and the rice has a distinctive peppery bite that lingers.
Named after the founder Nagasamy Naidu who wore a turban (thalappai + katti = turban-tied), this biryani was born in 1957 in Dindigul. It's pepper-forward instead of chilli-heavy, uses seeraga samba rice, and has a distinctive curd-based marinade. The original restaurant is still running, and the style has spawned an empire across Tamil Nadu.
Pepper is the hero spice, not chilli. The pepper gives warmth without the raw heat. The curd makes the meat impossibly tender. It's the most 'refined' of the Tamil Nadu biryanis — spicy but controlled.
Mix mutton with curd, ginger-garlic paste, pepper, turmeric, salt. Marinate 1-2 hours.
Heat oil, fry onions golden. Add marinated meat, green chillies, mint. Cook on medium 20 minutes until meat is nearly done.
Add washed seeraga samba, water, and remaining spices. Bring to boil, then cover tightly on lowest flame for 18 minutes.
Rest 5 min. Add ghee, fried onions, and lemon juice. Fluff and serve.